The radial arm saw puts out a significant amount of sawdust, unless it's hooked into a dust collector. Mine has never had that luxury, so dust has infiltrated most of the various components of the saw.
The next step was a big one - cleaning the rollers and track on which the saw travels. They were a mess. First I pulled off the front plate on the overhead arm, and peeked inside. 
It was filthy,
but before I could really clean anything, I had to pull the whole saw out of the track. Not an easy feat, as the motor is very heavy. So I pulled up a cart to the front of the saw, and lowered the motor until it just rested on the cart.
Then I slowly wheeled the cart (and the motor) out of the carriage. Here are the bearings, which were really dirty.
My rag went from this
to this.
After the cleaning, the track looked like this.
I wheeled the cart right back up to the overhead arm, and slid the bearings back in place. After making sure everything moved smoothly, I put the front plate back in place.
The locking handle needed an adjustment, too.
When locked down, the knob on the end of it hit the body, keeping it from fully locking in place. This adjustment required loosening the set screw, and pulling off the handle, putting it into a different position so the knob wasn't in the way. This simple procedure took forever, as I couldn't loosen that big bolt in the center of the handle.
A call to Delta saved the day. The nut doesn't come off! So I grabbed the biggest screwdriver in the shop and pried the handle off.
Next step? Replacing the table. 
Way back when (1994, to be precise), my 14" radial arm saw was new and clean. It cut straight and square, and the overhead arm didn't wobble. The table was flat as as could be, and life was good.
That was then, this is now.
So I decided to take it apart, and tune it up, using this book by Jon Eakes.
I didn't realize this book had an affiliation with Lee Valley Tools, but once I saw that, I was somewhat relieved. They know their stuff.
The book lays out some basic procedures for getting a radial arm saw back into shape, and if you follow the directions step by step, it's really not too difficult. The biggest problem I ran into is that the book is that he focuses on three specific saws - none of which were my brand. So some of the precise tool adjustments the author discusses don't apply to my machine. Still, I only called Delta's tech support line twice. Anyone with some reasonable mechanical skill can whip their saw into shape.
Start by cleaning the saw. You can see that the column on mine is filthy and somewhat oxidized.
I not only wiped it down with ammonia, but raised and lowered the column several times to get all the grunge off of it. A light spritz with WD-40 (the only place this is recommended) was the final coat on the column.
The first big adjustment is eliminating the column play. On my saw, it's accomplished by loosening several locking nuts and set screws, and then adjusting the two big bolts on the back of the column. It's not easy.
Too much tightening and you can't raise or lower the saw that easily. An adjustment that's too loose will allow sloppiness and side-to-side movement, which is a no-no. It's a fine line on this adjustment, and it took a good hour of screwing around until I got it just right.
Next up... more cleaning and a new table.
